Відео

I my not understand it all 😊but I have more of a clue now than ever before

The spirit of generosity and collaboration here is heartening. It's a reminder that we're stronger together.💝

Yhea the water will definitely kill any fire😂

Just a theory Mike but that hole looked slightly ovaled to me on the backing plate... is it possible someone has chiseled the screws out after say ronding the heads off and therefore divoting the cast around the tapper for that bolt hole?

Genius !!!!! Sell the jigs on the shop?

I mean I see the countersink is not good. Is it the correct angle on Srew or Countersink hole ? It is going threw the thread, so why not using Loctide for sealing the thread , and maschining the Countersink hole? Also, I can see many small edges, and shaves ? Some srews are not in Line with the head, so maschine the cone a little bit. Sometimes Galvanizing is different thickness.

At least now you know its a genuine land-rover rebuild with the usual leak.

Thanks,great tip. Got a vw syncro with the same pump that is not passing fuel, fingers crossed that’s the problem.

cool vid , as per

You just don’t know what was done to it before it arrived on your bench. There’s some real thick neck buggers out there who can muller anything!

A flux welder for automotive works wouldn't be my first choice , but as easy goto , than stick , sure, and for the price , absolutely.

Think the problem is your clock's stopped, Mike.

That aluminum part must have hairline crack! But You fixed that one anyway!

Did it come in a yellow bag?

Looks like that cover plate been drilled where stud goes in .try new cover

II’m not sure but if that screw is on the suction side of the pump (while running) it will draw air in. On stopping gravity will leak oil.

Hello, I’m new to your site and I really don’t use UA-cam a lot but the market a Land Rover Think Ebay is the easiest way. They are people looking for clean, low mileage, original condition vehicles. But unless you’re in a large Land Rover club that has connections to other large Land Rover groups. How do you find a Land Rover I think most people turned to Ebay if they don’t have personal connections. I like your site and have watched several of your videos and they’re very good and I will continue to view them. marketing is difficult so maximum exposure is needed and unless someone is wealthy the overall economy affects sales.

If there is any opportunity for a liquid to escape it container, it will I wouldn’t touch those bolts and plates at any cost right now you got it to stop leaking and I swear if you touch it again it’s gonna dump like a sieve

Hi Mike, do I need to remove the interior plastic panels to reach out the roof top screws? I removed the roof headliner now and can see the roof top screw from above. Do I need to counter the screws from below? Seems like the lower part of the screws are hiding behind the interior plastic panels? Do I need to counter/touch them from below? Or is the thread fixed and I can only untighten the nut from above? Best greetings from Germany!

The chamfer of the hole in the plate is quite large compared to the bolt so not 100% contact between bolt head and plate. Also, as said, may not be a true face on the plate. Sorry you missed evensong on this one. Suggest looking into Mr Jameson for a more in-depth answer.

The plate hole is not circular there's a low in the countersunk hole

Those jobs can make you lose it

may be the Deliverquantity is different ?

Looked to me like the bolt was bottoming out because of when a previous screw was drilled out it had made the countersink in the plate deeper. I presume the reason it was not leaking when running was because the pump was sucking air.

I've tried a flux core gasless mig and it did alright. I buy the hobby sized gas bottles (which are dear enough) for all that I need to weld. What I struggle with is setting up mine to get a decent weld which is where the digital ones with presets are much better. Not a bad little welder for light work.

It's a landrover, it's supposed to leak 😉 Puddles of fluid tells you it still has some to lose.

to much shore?!?

may be the Oring is to hard?

Could drive you nuts chasing something like that. I'd be reluctant to remove that pump again but I get that it wasn't the one the box came with. Hope something was found with the plate to explain the issue.

Défaut de planéité !!

Little things like that can send a man over the edge. I hope JP finds something buckled, bent, warped or all three just so you can sleep easy.

Have you drilled out these bolts? Conical seat in steelplate looks damaged. These bolts also need some sealing otherwise they can leak through the thread

Still don’t know why it wasn’t leaking while running… ah, the mysteries of working on Defenders!!

Its satanic mike. Exercisim required

First

Hi Mike, how does it do tig if its gassless?

Mike, What sender can I put in my disco (1) 300tdi so that it can use the defender temp gauge?

I tried it 30 odd years ago, didn't like it then and still don't, the clean up of all the splatter was annoying and laying underneath that hot shower of molten rain was unpleasant and as you said, the smoke makes it hard to see what you're doing, quite surprised you didn't set fire to the cardboard box there :)

The wire feed button is handy 😮😊😊

ua-cam.com/users/shortsCrbItZ8S1E4?si=vFbRp8_FuPcPCaG6

These little things are great for me, a DIYer. Not so good for a fabricator. With me, even the Army teachers couldn't get me welding. Huge Lincoln stick welders etc. Later on I tried a shop MIG and was useless at it. But recently I got a little Unimig gas/gasless set and lo, I can turn out decent enough welds almost out of the box. And all I have to do is tell it the type and thickness and it does the rest. I'm 70 and all of a sudden I can weld! And the real kicker is that now it has taught me that my isue was always confidence, and now I can also use the little inverter stick job I bought years ago. Best AU$4300 I have spent in a while. Came with an auto darkening lid as well. As for the fumes, I don't use it indoors at all, and have a portable fan on the same 15amp extension. Works well for what I want, but I can get a bottle if I need to use it in other places. For the casual welder like me they're brilliant.

I'm replacing the 1988 RRC inner swivel housing to axel oil seal & the new seal inner diameter seems to measure 28mm but seems very sloppy on the axel sealing surface ! which has part No. FTC3276A, what is the difference with FTC5268A ?

I use flux-core all day every day at work - there's 2 crucial rules : 1. Only use 1mm wire. Reasons. 2.Your machine MUST have arc-force adjustment. Most don't. I never change the settings on my work machine - they are left set as low as they go & are never touched, regardless of what thickness steel I am welding. However, I'm dancing on the arc-force setting all day every day as that is what matters. It goes from -5 to +5 & is totally crucial in order to get proper welds. If the machine doesn't have that adjustment, it's rubbish, simple as. If you can only adjust amps & volts, it isn't going to weld well no matter what you do. You don't need to adjust those with flux core, only arc-force. Solid wire gas shielded is a whole 'nother game altogether - the rules of that do not apply to flux core, regardless of what anyone tells you.

Not too sure about all those fumes

The problem for DIY is the argon gas is so expensive not just for gas but the cylinder hire and keeping it in test date. I’ve used a gas less to weld a rear crossmember on 90tdi and then towed a trailer with a Bridgeport mill in it. Mine is one of the first with high/low for amps. It’s welding my sons Mazda Mx5 body work and sills and does alright. It will get you out of a scrape. No body wants small welding jobs because of insurance, especially on rusty cars like 300tdi and Mazdas. So you have to do them yourself. 👍👍👍

loads of fumes from that need air mask

Hi Mike going to change gearbox oil this week on 97 300 tdi swb - lots of people say only use redline - but what would you recommend please. Ta

Exploded a lay shaft a few years ago. I think the bearing sized and snapped the shaft. The bearing came out easy as it was cracked. Wish I had known about the punch holes idea before I put it back together. Have an engine main bearing seal issue in a 2a Station Wagon on the go now. Will pull apart the gearbox, redo the syncro. What else should be done when I already have this much pulled apart?

Hi Mike, Love the videos, dude. Between you and landrover toolbox videos, i think we're going to secure the future of lr maintenance. Bit of advice if I may.. I took Wilfred_the_110 to the Alrad 4x4 show in Germany a few weeks back, and basically, the LT77 gear box gave up when we arrived. When I took my foot off the accelerator, there was a chucking sound and the gearbox sounded like a bag of bolts, as soon as I put my foot back on and thus sending power down the drive train it was fine. Until it wasn't. My lates video shows more details. What do you think it could be? I have been gifted early LT77 50A suffex E as a stop gap once the truck is returned but I'm thinking of dropping in an R380 with a 1:2 transfer box for more overlanding style of vehicle. Thanks in advance Dan

Watched this out of sequence with the R380 strip down. Comprehensive kit from Ashcrofts.